Wednesday, October 30, 2024

Travilla 1960 Part 2


Travilla successfully dramatizes a black silk crepe sheath through a mantle and apron tunic of black silk chiffon, both banded in silk crepe. A wide self-belt hugs the waistline. 


A handsome ensemble of Rodier woolen by Travilla features a sheath dress with a torso bodice of black wool jersey and a tabbed skirt of flecked amethyst-green tweed. The seven-eighths length coat is lined in a black wool jersey.


Travilla chose a rich garnet wool with woven coin dots for this dramatic sheath dress, distinguished by a new sleeve called "Renaissance" by the designer. The inner part of the sleeve is a deep slash, emphasizing the dress's slender line. 


Charcoal and grey silk, woven in fine checks, with button-on self-stole, handsome black leather buttons, and a leather string belt, make one of Travilla's most distinguished and wearable Spring ensembles.


Insets of smoky topaz satin mark the midriff and lowered waistline of this black silk crepe dress by Travilla. The high, round neckline is cut to stand slightly away from the throat.


Ombre hand-loomed silk from oyster white to black is the fabric chosen by California designer Travilla for this individual jacket and sheath costume for Spring. For dramatic effect, the black line of the silk is concentrated at the waistline.


Ombre, hand-loomed wool georgette, merging from grey through darker grey, coffee-brown to black. A bateau neckline, seven-eighths tunic slashed at the lower edge. The jacket is black with decorative buttons.


A Persian design of blue and beige on brown wool. Brown satin faille is used for the hip insert.



The black silk crepe dress has a contoured calf belt through which the front drapery of the skirt is pulled.




A sheath dress of black silk and wool with crisscross draping extending from above the midriff to the hipline. At the natural waistline, an antique silver button fastens the crisscross folds of fabric, while the high  V-neckline follows the V-line of the folds.


(Right) Shades of amethyst in a light-weight imported wool. The crisscross detail begins above the bodice midriff and continues into a three-quarter tunic flared to emphasize the slender skirt. A rounded shoulder line extends into semi-dolman sleeves, extending at bracelet length.



A dress of Glen-plaid wool in taupe, green, and black, with a suit-ish collar and black suede belt.


A light-hearted cocktail dress of brown and grey warp-printed silk satin with a double scoop neckline, forming two shoulder points. The domed skirt has controlled hip fullness by means of narrow pleats placed on band just below the waistline. 


A tunic dress of cyclamen warp-printed Swis satin stiffly flared over a narrow sheath, the horse-shoe neckline marked by black satin, the shoulders rounding into loose three-quarter sleeves. Topknot pillbox by designer.


A short dinner gown using hand-crocheted pinstripes of black bugle beads on black chiffon, effectively dramatized by slender lines and deep three-quarter Dolman sleeves. 


A black crepe sheath covered with a layer of black silk chiffon lightly folded into back drapery with a petal hat of silk organza.



A magnificent coat of ivory satin embossed in rich hues of brown cut velvet and collared in Cabana Marrona Nutria comprises a theatre costume. Swirl draping and a free-flowing panel distinguish the lovely brown silk chiffon sheath.

An evening gown of pure white silk glitters with polyester coin dots. It has a covered sleeveless top and a great overskirt lifted at the front, revealing a stem-slim sheath.





Spiraling great black chiffon circles around the body creates a dramatic evening gown. The fluid but slender silhouette is amplified by the jewel-fastened scarf that trails from one shoulder.


A strapless evening gown of white printed lace mylar re-embroidered over white peau de sole. The great skirt, which is knee-length in front, sweeps gracefully to a back train.

Dance dress of white organza printed with a bold baroque pattern of blue. Asymmetrical folds at the hip give a greater sweep to the skirt. The bodice is punctuated at the waist by a blue satin bow.



A sheath of red Spanish lace with contrasting great collar of pale-pink satin. (Below) Another version is black with a white collar.



A floor-length sheath of amethyst peau de soie with a coat of white and amethyst embroidered with gold.

Vanilla raw silk dress with a fake wrap-around skirt and a surprise closed bodice. Features a wider shoulder line, drop cape sleeves with inverted pleats at the top, and a bowed belt.





Shock pink and violet carnations are tossed on white dupioni silk shantung. A softly rolled cape collar subtly widens the shoulder area, extending to form a buttoned panel down the front. The waistline is cinched in with a bow-tie drawstring.


Travilla showing several of his sketches to a charity committee. not many of his from this era survive.


Dona Drake Travilla poses for one of many charity fashion shows she participated in for her husband. Only 5', she showed how petite women could wear the same fashion as their taller friends.

Monday, October 28, 2024

Travilla 1960

The retail version of the costume Joanne Woodward wore in From the Terrace. A suit dress of natural silk linen with a 7/8 length cutaway front and button closings at the waistline over a matching slim sheath.

A beige suit dress of imported silk and wool achieves a fresh, youthful look through white insets in the portrait collar and a white bow to square off the neckline. The intricate use of waistline folds simulating a jacket front is a Travilla trademark.

A day dress of black silk dupioni with a tunic and bodice front of Italian silk print in silver and charcoal which also lines the back hip panel.


Sketches seen in photographs.

A day costume of black silk linen and stark white Alix jersey. The collarless coat is draped into sling folds at each side and is lined with jersey, also used for the top of the strapless sheath dress.




An afternoon dress of white silk French chiffon boldly printed in black palm leaves. The molded bodice has a cape-sleeve silhouette, and a sash of black chiffon applied at a slightly lower waistline defines the full circular skirt. 


Travilla's new sunburst-pleated evening gown is made of supple black silk satin. The skillful draping in the center front makes it a model of simplicity and distinction. 

An evening sheath of black silk faille with an inset and bowed belt of Capri-blue satin. The matching stole is lined with Capri-blue satin.






A series of solid color dresses in textured red and brown silk with white polka dot insets around the dress center.





Vogue Full-Page Ad and store listing. 


January Jones in Mad Men. Amazing coincidence.











Travilla 1971 End of an Era

In late April 1971, the government convicted the Bills of “prohibited trade practices” and "importing, selling, or transporting flammab...